Posts Tagged ‘electricity’

100 ways to save energy-Part 5

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

This information is reprinted from a booklet called “100+ Ways To Improve Your Electric Bill.” These simple, low- or no-cost tips can assist you in making your energy decisions and in gaining greater control over your electric bill. By following these tips, you also will improve the comfort and convenience of your home. And you’ll help to protect the environment by using energy wisely. Compiled by the Edison Electric Institute 2008© Washington, D. C. www.eei.org

FOOD REFRIGERATION

Select refrigerator and freezer sizes that are just large enough for your family’s needs. Operating energy is proportional to cubic feet of refrigerated space, regardless of whether all of the space is utilized.

Consider replacing your refrigerator or freezer BEFORE it breaks down. Look for the ENERGY STAR® label when shopping for refrigerators or freezers. On average, ENERGY STAR® refrigerators use at least 12 percent less energy. New federal energy efficiency standards for refrigerators took effect on July 1, 2001.

NEVER put a second refrigerator in the garage. In the winter months, frozen foods may melt (as the temperature sensor in the refrigerator will not activate the compressor if the temperature in the garage is 420 F or lower). In the summer months, the temperature in the garage can easily exceed 1000 F, and the refrigerator has to work extra hard to keep food cold. If you need a second unit, place it in your basement.

On older units, vacuum clean the con-denser coils of refrigerators and freezers (in the back or at the bottom of cabinets) every three months or so. Dust-covered coils impair the efficiency of compressor operation and increase energy usage.

Door gaskets on refrigerators and freezers should seal tightly against the frames to prevent infiltration of warm air. To check the condition of the gasket, place a dollar bill against the frame and close the door. If the bill can be pulled out with a very gentle tug or, worse still, simply drops out on its own, the door requires adjustment, or the gasket needs replacing.

Some older refrigerators are furnished with a power-saver switch. A heating ele-ment provides a small amount of heat that prevents moisture condensation around the edges of the door. Try turning the switch off; condensation, if any, may be slight and unobjectionable. If this is the case, save energy by keeping the switch off.

When buying a new refrigerator, look for new energy-saving features such as improved insulation materials. These features can save as much as 10 percent in annual consumption of electricity.

Do not place uncovered liquids in refrigerators. In addition to absorbing undesirable flavors, the liquids give off vapors that add to the compressor work-load.

Allow hot foods or liquids to cool off before placing them in the refrigerator. The cooling-off period should not hurt the taste of the food and will reduce the load on the refrigerator. Discard any un-cooked food that has remained at room temperature for more than two hours.

Plan ahead and remove all ingredients for each meal at one time. Each time the door of a refrigerator or freezer is opened, its compressor has to run a bit longer to replace the cold air that spills out.

Chest-type freezers are less likely to lose cold air when doors are opened than upright freezers.

For the same storage capacity, chest-type freezers use anywhere from 11 to 27 percent less energy than upright freezers.

For further information on refrigeration, check out the following Web sites: www.aham.org and www.energystar.gov.

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100 ways to save energy-Part 4

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

This information is reprinted from a booklet called “100+ Ways To Improve Your Electric Bill.” These simple, low- or no-cost tips can assist you in making your energy decisions and in gaining greater control over your electric bill. By following these tips, you also will improve the comfort and convenience of your home. And you’ll help to protect the environment by using energy wisely. Compiled by the Edison Electric Institute 2008© Washington, D. C. www.eei.org

HEATING

If you are buying a new heating system, consider a high-efficiency electric air source or ground source heat pump. The energy efficiency is rated according to a federal standard called the Heating Seasonal Performance Factor, or HSPF. Heat pumps with an HSPF of 10 are al-most three times more efficient than the most efficient gas furnaces. In January 2006, the new minimum efficiency for air source heat pumps rose to 7.7 HSPF, while efficiency levels for furnaces and boilers have not increased since 1992.

Ground source heat pumps, or GeoEx-change units, use the Earth as a heat source in the winter and as a heat sink in the summer. Ground source heat pumps are rated in terms of Coefficient of Performance (COP) for the winter. The higher the COP, the higher the efficiency. Where gas furnaces have COP values in the 0.78 to 0.94 range, ground source heat pumps have COP values in the 3.0 to 5.0 range.

In the heating season, water vapors from bathing and cooking are beneficial because they help humidify the home. So, use kitchen and bath exhaust fans sparingly in the winter to keep as much heat as possible inside your house.

Locate the heating thermostat on an inside wall away from windows and doors. Cold drafts will cause the thermostat to keep the system running even when the rest of the house is warm enough.

Set the heating thermostat as low as comfort permits. For instance, each degree above 680 F can add 3 percent to the amount of energy needed for heating. If you have a heat pump, make sure that the thermostat is designed to operate the heat pump efficiently when raising the temperature after it has been lowered.

When entertaining a large group of people during the heating season, lower the thermostat a degree or two before the guests arrive. Otherwise, since people generate heat, the space may become wastefully overheated.

Lubricate pump and blower bearings regularly in accordance with manufactur-ers’ recommendations to limit the amount of energy lost to friction and to extend equipment life as well.

Close heating vents and radiator valves in unused rooms. Make sure that drapes, plants, or furniture do not block registers for supply or return air.

For more information on heating, check out the following Web sites: www.geoexchange.com
and www.energystar.gov.

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100 ways to save energy-Part 3

Monday, November 23rd, 2009

This information is reprinted from a booklet called “100+ Ways To Improve Your Electric Bill.” These simple, low- or no-cost tips can assist you in making your energy decisions and in gaining greater control over your electric bill. By following these tips, you also will improve the comfort and convenience of your home. And you’ll help to protect the environment by using energy wisely. Compiled by the Edison Electric Institute 2008© Washington, D. C. www.eei.org

COOLING

Air conditioners vary considerably in efficiency and in the amount of energy used. Therefore, select equipment based on its federal energy efficiency rating. For window units, this rating is the Energy Efficiency Ratio, or EER. New standards for room air conditioners went into effect on October 1, 2000. For many types of room air conditioners, the minimum EER is 9.0 or 9.7. As a general rule, an EER of 11 or more is excellent.

Central air-conditioner units are rated on their Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio, or SEER. A rating of 14 SEER is excellent, and the minimum cooling efficiency for air conditioners and heat pumps is 13 SEER. An ENERGY STAR® unit will have a SEER level of 14 and an EER of 11.5.

Seek professional help when determining the size of cooling equipment needed. Oversized units should be avoided—not only because they draw more energy than is necessary, but also because they cannot dehumidify properly.

Locate the compressor units of central air-conditioning and heat pump systems in an outside area that is shaded by the house or by trees and plants. Units should be kept clean and free of any plant or tree overgrowth.

Direct sunlight falling on a window air-conditioning unit increases its workload. When a choice is possible, locate such units on the north or shady side of the house.

Set the cooling thermostat as high as comfort will permit. The higher the set-ting, the more energy you save.

Attics must be ventilated to relieve heat buildup caused by the sun. When planning a new home, install vents of proper size and location to ensure attic ventilation by natural airflow. For existing homes, determine whether attic ventilation is adequate and, if necessary, improve airflow by adding or enlarging vents.

Choose light-colored roof shingles for your house to reflect more of the sun’s heat. The darker the shingles, the more heat will be absorbed during the summer season.

Open windows during the moderate weather of spring and fall to admit outside air for cooling instead of operating air-conditioning equipment.

Close cooling vents and turn off window air conditioners in unused rooms. Keep doors to unused rooms closed.

Draw blinds, shades, or drapes to block the sunlight during the hottest part of the day, especially on south- and west-facing windows.

In the cooling season, run kitchen and bath exhaust fans only long enough to rid the house of unwanted water vapor and odors.

Don’t position heat-producing devices such as lamps and TV sets beneath a wall-mounted thermostat for a central cooling system. Heat rising from the equipment could cause the thermostat to read a temperature higher than the true room temperature and lead to over-cooling.

For more information on cooling, check out the
following Web sites: www.geoexchange.com, www.ahrinet.org and www.energystar.gov

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100 ways to save energy-Part 2

Sunday, November 22nd, 2009

This information is reprinted from a booklet called “100+ Ways To Improve Your Electric Bill.” These simple, low- or no-cost tips can assist you in making your energy decisions and in gaining greater control over your electric bill. By following these tips, you also will improve the comfort and convenience of your home. And you’ll help to protect the environment by using energy wisely. Compiled by the Edison Electric Institute 2008© Washington, D. C. www.eei.org

AIR INFILTRATION

Find the obvious places where air can sneak into your home, then make repairs to plug the leaks by caulking, weather-stripping, and using plastic covers.

Some of the major air leakage areas for the average home are: air ducts; window sashes and frames; fireplaces; door sashes and frames; plumbing utilities and wall penetrations; furnace flues; attic entrances; wall outlets; and recessed light fixtures.

Keep the overhead door of an attached garage closed to block cold winds from infiltrating the connecting door between the house and garage.

Fireplaces should have tightly fitting dampers that can be closed when the fireplace is not in use. Open dampers allow the natural draft of chimneys to pull warm air out in winter and cool air out in summer.

Close fireplace doors when not in use to reduce air infiltration and heat loss.

For more information on air infiltration and insulation, check out the following Web sites: www.insulate.org ,www.naima.org
www.nfrc.org and www.simplyinsulate.org

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100 ways to save energy-Part 1

Saturday, November 21st, 2009

This information is reprinted from a booklet called “100+ Ways To Improve Your Electric Bill.” These simple, low- or no-cost tips can assist you in making your energy decisions and in gaining greater control over your electric bill. By following these tips, you also will improve the comfort and convenience of your home. And you’ll help to protect the environment by using energy wisely. Compiled by the Edison Electric Institute 2008© Washington, D. C. www.eei.org

INSULATION

The single most important step in resi-dential energy conservation is the installation of thermal insulation. Check current insulation levels, and properly insulate a new or existing home according to the U.S. Department of En-ergy’s specifications for your geographic area. Insulate ceilings, walls, and floors over unconditioned crawl spaces.

Double-glazed windows (two panes of glass separated by a sealed air space) cut heat transfer by 40 to 50 percent. In extremely cold regions, triple glazing could be economically justified.

Single-glazed windows should have storm windows. A wood or metal frame storm window provides a second thickness of glass and a layer of still air that reduces heat transmission markedly.

Install storm doors at all entrances of the house. A storm door helps save energy because it reduces the mass of air infiltration that occurs when the prime door is opened and also reduces the amount of heat transfer through the prime door when it is closed.

Weatherstrip and caulk around all en-trance doors and windows to limit air leaks that could account for 15 to 30 percent of heating and cooling energy requirements.

In the winter, the air is normally dry inside your house. This is a disadvantage because, to be comfortable in dry air, people typically require a higher temperature than they would in a humid environment. Therefore, efficient humidifiers are a good investment for energy conservation.

For more information on insulation, please visit www.energysavers.gov or
www.simplyinsulate.org.

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Power to the People! America’s Infrastructure Part 5

Wednesday, October 21st, 2009

Do you remember the night the power went out? I do-August 14, 2003. I also remember the near panic as people started getting the word that the power was out in Pennsylvania, New York, and even part of Canada. Without power there was little information to go on, and after 9/11, fear was very high. Hard to believe that the entire incident could be pinned onto a single power line in Ohio. Overworked and transmitting power at maximum capacity, it sagged and touched a tree branch. At that point, it short circuited and sent a wave of power surges that cascaded across the power grid so fast it was impossible to stop. Within about 12 seconds, 6 states and Ontario, Canada were affected. It is at times like that in which we begin to realize how fully we depend on electricity to survive.

Modern life required power. Cities which drive the economic engine of the country, like New York with its Stock Exchange or Chicago with its Board of Trade, are useless without power. Without the interconnectedness created by our power grid, there is no trade. Transportation grinds to a halt. Not only are street lights and signals out, train stations and airports dependent on power for safe operations, but many public transportation systems are powered by electricity. Trapped in the dark for hours commuters along the Eastern Seaboard waited for hours for help getting out of tunnels, only to be stuck wherever they were. Then there are the issues of water. When the power grid goes down, water treatment stops and the water supply risks contamination from untreated water. Cleveland was on a boil alert for days.

A fluke? Perhaps. Yet America’s power grid is in the same shape across the entire country. America’s power grid is an achievement of incredible proportions. To create it, we built some 10,000 power plants. We hung 160,000 miles of high voltage power lines. We installed countless transformers and millions of local power lines and poles. However, now we face the problem that much of the grid is under maintained and due for a severe overhaul. To get an idea of how severe the problem is, take a look at the power poles as you drive around. Made from southern yellow pine and treated to stand up to the weather and to resist insect destruction, our electric poles have a life of about 30 years. When you look at the rotting and leaning poles around the country, you can see that many are way past their usable life.

In addition to the aging power grid, we face the dilemma of increased usage. The grid as we know it was never meant to handle the loads that we are forcing on it now, or will in the near future. We have seen a 15% spike in usage in recent years, and can expect another 20 % increase in the next decade. I don’t see this as helping to alleveiate the already overtaxed system. Outages are expected to increase-already the average household experiences 214 minutes of blackout every year. Just conisder yourself luck that you do not live in the Chicago suburb of Deerfield, Illinois. They have some 200 blackout a year.

When the great power outage of the NE occurred, we had no way to know what was happening and thus no way of stopping it. In fact, the grid we are now using has little or no monitoring capabilities in place. Many power companies do not even know they have a blackout until they get the calls from their customers. Until they do, they continue to send power down those lines not knowing it is being lost. Overhauling the grid is expected to take 1.5 trillion dollars by 2030. That’s if we start now. Fortunately, the new smart grid will help to eliminate many of the issues that we face today. But what exactly is the smart grid, and how will it work?

The smart grid, is essentially a new grid with better lines, more hubs, and better controls. That means that we can draw more power from areas with excess when we need it, and send our excess to areas that have a need when we have extra. It will let us know when there are issues in transmission, and can reroute power better to allow for less consumers to be affected by small localized problems in the grid. Furthermore, it will eventually utilize smart appliances that will talk to the grid itself. Imagine power usage at its very peak capacity and we are nearing a blackout. If the grid sends out a signal to every refrigerator to shut down its condenser for a few minutes, we can avoid the blackout. This will allow the surge in usage to pass, or for the grid to reroute power to provide the necessary backup. Then the all clear signal comes out and fridges can again turn themselves back up. With the right technology in place, brown outs and blackouts could be virtually eliminated, and as this often happens in milliseconds, your ice cream won’t get mushy. As we increase our usage of plug in electric vehicles, they can act as back-up batteries, allowing the grid to pull a little power when it needs a little boost. More on site renewable electricity like solar and wind will also help, by reducing usage of the grid, and by providing a little back up for when it is needed.

We have the technology, now we just need the investment. With the answers in reach, I hope we start to make the leap before we see repeats of the 2003 outage on a more regular basis.

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